Improvement in method of weaving fabrics



m v d N, PETERS. PHDTG-LITNOGRAPHER, WASHINGTON. D Q

@cimiteri 1li-tats Letters .Patent No. 97,434, dated November 3l), 1869.

IMPROVEMENT IN METHOD DF WEAVING- FABRICS.

The Schedule referred to in these Letters Patent and making part of the same.

over the warp-threads, and thon cutting the weftthreads; and

It consists in an improved mode of weaving, by which the whole of the pile-weft appears on the face, a-nd the back is plain or tiwilled.

In perfor-innig my invention, I employ an ordinary loom, having one, or two, of more shnttles, containing the'l different qualities ofl weft required.

,l first throw one or more shots of the pile-weft, and then one or more shots of the weft for the back and for the binding. In all cases,tl1e number of shots ofvthe .pile-weit, is greater than thel shots of the binding-weft, and the binding-weft, being generally coarser tha-11 the pile-weft, forces up the pile-weft, and makes a close back.

I am also enabled to malte a plain cloth, or twill'ed selvage, ot' any width, by floating the pile-weft across the selvage, which is produced entirely' by the warp and the binding or back weft.

My invention is particularly beneficial when applied in the manufacture of velvets, having a silk pileand a cotton back, but itmay be used in manufactin'ing plnshes or cords, with a worsted face and cotton back, or for various other descriptions `of' piled fabrics, having the face and hack of dilferent materials. fllain, twilled, diagonal, or figured piled fabrics can be produced in the manner above described, either with or without a plain back.

My invention may also be applied in weaving double fabrics, united by the pile-weft, and then cut asnnder, in the usual manner, and to plain, twill, diagonal, or

' figured woollcn or other cloth, Athat docs not require a piled face, but in which one face is required, of a better or more expensive material than the other.

And in order that my invention may be fully understood and readily carried into operation, a cornpetent, practical weaver or designer, l will proceed to describe the diagrams, which represent several tienps, or modes of arranging and working the hcalds, and throwingin the wett to produce the desired fabrics. The looms in which my inn'n'oved fabrics are woyen are ofthe ordinary description, having, by preference, two or more shuttles, containing thel weit for the face and hack of the fabric. .\Vllen the fabric is taken ont of the loom, the pile-weft is cnt, when required, in the ordinary manner, and raised, to form the face of' the fabric.

In the accompanying diagrams, the spaces between the horizontal lines indicate the healds or shafts, and the spaces between the vertical lilies indicate the trcadles. The o o, inthe spacesbetween these horizontal and vertical lines, show the order vot' succession in which the healds are raised.

".lhe lowest horizontal space, nnu'kcd l, represents the catch-cord or shalt, to prevent the weft going back in the saine shed.

lhc two next spaces, marked l and 2,-rcprcs-cnt the selvagge-shafts, and the others, marked l1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6, arc the shafts for the body of thc fabric.

On sheet l, the diagram, Figure l, is for weaving a plain-backed velvet, witha plain selvage. The first she'dis made byraisingthefront selvagge-shaft and the first, third, and fth shafts of the body of-the fabric, and lowering the second sclvngc-shal't and the second, fourth, and sixth body-shafts. lhc second shed is formed by raising theiirst body-shaft and lowering allA theothers. The third shed is formed by raising the third body-shaft and lowering ill t-ho rest. The fourth shed is formed by raising the lifth body-shaft and lowering all the rest. The fifth shed is formed by raising the catch-cord shaft, tho front scly-'age-shaft, and the first, third, and fifth body-shafts, and lowering thesccond serrage-shaft, and the second, fourth, and sixth body-shafts. The sixth shed is formed by raising the second selvage-shaft, andthe second, tbn1th,and, sixth body-shafts, and lowering the catch-cord shaft, the front sel v'agcshaftf, and the first, third, and lifthbodyshafts. '.lhc seventh shed is formed by raising the second body-shaft, and lowering all the rest. The eighth shed is formed by raising the fourth body-shaft, and lowering the rest. Lhe ninth shed is formed by raising the sixth body-shaft, and lowering the rest; andthe tenth or lastshed is formed by raising the catclncord shaft, the second sclvage-shaft, the second, fourth, and sixth body-shafts, and lowering the front selvage-shalt, and the first, third, and fifth bodyshafts. By this arrangement the pilc-weft is thrown across at the second, third, fourth, seventh, eighth, and ninth sheds, and it is made to float over live varp-threads, and the pile-weft is brought to the face of the fabric by throwing two shots of weft for the back at the first and filth sheds, and at the sixth and tenth sheds. rlhc liagram, Figure 2, represents a tie-np for weaving a fabric similar' to that produced by fig. l, but with thc twill inthe contrary direction.

liignres'and 4 are tic-ups corresponding lo figs. l and 2, but with the draught broken, or 'ranged with the uneven and even numbers in succession. This arrangement is sometimes desirable for facilitate ing the working of the heaids, or for other purposes. I wish to observe here, that all the subsequent tieups may be arranged by broken draught, upon the -same principle as figs. 3 and 4.

Figure 5 is a tie--up for weaving a f'abric similar to that produced by fig. 1, but with twice the quantity of pile-weft on the face.'

Figure (i is the reverse of g. 5, but in other respects similar.

Figure 7 is a tie-up similar to iig. 1, but for pro ducing a fabric having three times lthe quantity of pile-weft on the face.

Figure'S is the reverse tie-up to iig. 7.

On sheet 2, Figure 9 is a tie-up to produce a fabric with four times more pile-weft than that produced by iig. 1.

Figure 10 is the reverse of fig. i).

Figure 11 is a tie-up to produce a fabric very similar to that produced by g. 9, but having four more shoots of weft in the back, to increase the strength.

Figure l2 is the reverse of iig. 11.

Figure 13 is a tie-up very similar to iig. 5, but with four additional shoots of weft in the back, to increase the strength.

Figure 14 is the reverse-of fig.' 13.

On sheet 3, Figure 15 is a tie-up similar' to iig. 7, but with the four additional shoots of weft in the back. v

Figure 16 is the reverse of iig. 15.

Figure'17 is a tic-up for producing a particularly strong and full-faced velvet.

Figure 18 isa tie-up to produce a fabric with both faces alike, either cr both of whie-h may he cut.

0n sheet 4, Figure 1S) is4 a tie-up to produce a twilled-back velvet, with a double-piled face.

Figure 20 is a diagram of a plain-back velvet, with a plain selvage, produced in a loom with eleven shafts, that is to say, one for the catch-cord, two for the selv. ge, 'and eight for the body of the fabric.

yFigure 21 is a tie-up similar io iig. 20, but with the draught broken.

Figure 22 is a tie-up for a plainfback satin-faced velvet. v

Figure 23 is the broken tie-up for a velvet, similar to Viig. 22. y i

Figure 24 is the tie-up for a twilled-back velvet with a fuller face than iig. 20. y

Figure 25 is the broken draught for fig. 24.

On sheet 5, Figure 26 is the tie-up for a twilledback velvet with anextra full face.

Figure 27 is a tie-up to produce a fabric with both faces alike, and with a twilled middle.

Figure 28 is the tie-up for a satin-faced velvet, with a twilled and plain back.

Figure 29 is the tie-up of a plain-back velvet, with a satin face and a plain selvage, produced in a loom with thirteen shafts, that is to say, one for the catchcord, two for the selvage, and ten for the body of the fabric. u

Figure 30 is vthe tie-up for a plain-back velvet with a rolling face.

On sheet Figure 3l is the tie-up fora plain-back velvet.

Figure 32 is the tie-up for a plain-back velvet, with double-pile satin face.

Figure 33 is the tie-up for a velvet with a rolling face double pile.

Figure 34 isthe tie-up for a single-pile satin-face velvet, with back and fate alike. Figure 35 is the tie-up of a single-'pile rolling-face velvet, with both sides alike.

Figure 36 is a tie-up for a double-pile satin-face vel-` d vet, with both sides alike. I

Figure 37.is the tie-up for producing a plain-bac one furthe catch-cord, two for the selvage, and twelve for the body of the fabric.

On sheet 7, Figure 38 is the reverse of fig. 37, but produces a similar fabric.

Figure 39 is a tie-up for producing a satin-faced velvet with a plain back. f

Figure 4() is a tie-up for producing a velvet similar to iig. 3f), without catch-cord and selvage.

Figure 41 is the tie-up for producing another satinfaced velvet, with a plain back. i

Figure 42 is the tie-up for a stronger velvet, with asatin face and plain back.

On sheet- 8, Figure 43 is the ti e-up for producing a double-faced satin velvet, with a double back.

Figure 44 is the tie-up Afor producing a fourfold satin-faced velvet, with a double back.

On sheet 9, Figure 45 is the tie-up for a double satin-faced velvet, with both sides of the fabric alike.

Figure 46 is the tie-up for producing a diagonal velvet with a twilled back.

Figure 47 is for producing a diagonal velvet with a plain back.

Figure 48 is for producing a double-faced diagona velvet with a twilled back.

On sheet 10, Figure 49 is the tie-up for producin adagonal double-faced velvet with a double-twilled back and twilled selvage, having the weft on the top side of the selvage. 'This fabric requires seventeen shafts, that is to say, two for the catch-cord, three for the selvage, and twelve for the body.

Figure 50 is t-he tie-up for a diagonal double-faced velvet, with a plain back and plain selvage, produced in aloon'i with two catch-cord shafts, two shafts for the selvage, and twelve for the body. l,

Figure 51 is the tie-up for wearing a plain-back double fabric, united by the pile-weft in a loom with twelve shafts.

Figure 52 is for producing a similar fabric with a shorter pile.

On sheet 11Figure 53 is the tie-up for weaving a double fabric united by the pile-weft, in a loom with sixteen shafts.

Figure 54 is for producing a similar double fabric, with twenty shafts.

Figure 55 is for producing a similar double fabric,

' with twenty-four shafts.

(In the above tie-ups for weaving double fabrics, -two three, four, live, six, seven, or eight warp-threzulsare drawn into one dent.)

Figure 56 is the tie-up for a plain selvage, with two shafts.

Figure 57 is for a twilled selvage, with three shafts, weft upward. Y

Figure 53 is for a similar selvage, with the warp upward.

Figure 59 is for a twilled selvage, with four shafts, weft upward.

Figure 60 is for a similar selvage, with warp upward.

Figure 61 is for a satin-twilled selvage, with four shafts, weft upward.

Figure G2 is for a silnilar selvage, with warp upward.

a double twill. l

Figure (i4 is a live-shaft satin-twi1l selvage, weft upward.

Figure (i5 is for a similar selvage, with the warp upward.

Figure 66 is for a selvagc with satin face, weft upward. A

Figure 67 is for a similar selvage, with the warp upward.

Figure (i8 is for a selv. ge with a two-twilled weft face, and a three-twilled warp back. l

Figure 63 is for a selva-ge, having both sides with The selvages above described can be applied to any of the tie-ups for Weaving my improved fabrics.

I do not claim a twilled back as such, but a twilled back Which, upon my method, affords the protection to the pile-weft from friction in Wear, and any injury to the pile-weft at the back of the cloth, such as being scratched out by the iinger-nail, as shown by my tie-up, fig. 24, upon Sheet No. 2, for twelve shafts, twenty-eight picks to the round, which is complete, upon my principle, making atwilled back for the body ofthe cloth, and twilled or diagonal selvage. Thus I Work.

Treadle No. 1, for a binding or protecting-pick raises, No. 1 and No. 3 selvagge-shafts and sinks Nos. 2 and 4 selvage-shai'ts, and also raises 1, 3, 5, 7, and sinks 2, 4, (5, 8, body-shafts. This shot affords protection at the back.

l Treadle No. 2 is a pile-treadle, and sinks Nos. 1, 2, 3, and 4, sewage-shafts, and raises body-shaft No. 1, sinking body-shafts Nos. 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8.

Treadle 3, for pile, sinks 1, 2, 3, 4, selvage-shafts, and sinks 1, 2, body-shafts; raises No. 3, sinking 4, v5, 6, 7, S.

Treadle No; 4 sinks 1, 2, 3, 4, sel Yage-shafts and also sinks Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, body-shafts, raising No. 5, sinking Nos. 6, 7, S.

Treadle No. 5 sinks N os. 1, 2, 3, 4, sewage-shafts, and also sinks Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5,6, body-shafts, raising No. 7, sinking No; 8.

Treadle No. 6, the first twill-pick for the back, raises 4 No. 1, selvage-shaft, and sinks 2, 3,4, and raises bodyshafts N os. 1, 3, 5, sinking`2, 4, o', 7, 8.

Treadle No. 7, pile-treadle, sinks 1, 2, 3,4, selva shafts, and raises body-shaft No, 1, sinking 2, 3, 6, 7, 3. v

Treadle No. 8, pile-treadle, sinks 1, 2, 3, 4, selvageshaft, and sinks 1, 2, body-shafts; raises No. 3, sinking 4, 5, (i, 7, 3.V

Treadle No. 9, pile-tl'eadle, sinks 1, 2, 3, 4, selvageshafts, and sinks 1, 2, 3, 4, body-shafts; raises No. 5, sinking ii, 7, 8. Y Y

Treadle No. 10, pile-treadle, sinks 1,2, 3, 4, s lvageshafts; sinks 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, body-shafts; raises No. 7 sinks No. 8.

Treadle No.11, second twill-treadle, sinks No. 1 selvage-shaft, raises No. 2; sinks 3 and 4; raises bodyshaft 1, 3, 7, sinking 2, 4, 5, (5, S.

No. l2 treadle, pile-treadle, sinks 1, 2, 3, 4, selvageshafts, raises No1 body-shaft, sinking 2, 3, 4, 5,6, 7, 8.

No. 13, treadle for pile, sinks 1, 2, 3, 4, selvageshafts; sinks 12, body-shaft; raises No. 3, sinking 4, 5, 6, 7, 8.

No.14, treadle for pile, sinks 1, shafts; sinks 1, 2, 3, 4, body-shafts; 7 8.

,No 15, treadle for pile, sinks 1, 2, 3, 4, selvageshafts; sinks Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, (i, body-shafts; raises No. 7, sinking No. 8.

No. V1G treadle, third twill-treadle, sinks 1, 2, selvage-shafts, raises No. 3; sinks No. 4, raises No. 1, body-shaft; sinks 2, 3, 4, raises No. 5, sinking No. 6 raise 7, sink 3.,y v

No. 17, treadle for-pile, sinks Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, selvageshafts, raises No. 1 body-shaft; sinks 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8.

No. 13, treadle for pile, sinks 1, 2, 3, 4, selvageshafts; sinks 1 and 2 body-shafts, raises 3, sinking 4, 5, 6, 7, 8,.

No.19,treadle for pile, sinks 1, 2, 3, 4, selvageshafts; sinks 1, 2, 3, 4, body-shafts, raises 5, sinking (j,

No 20, treadle for pile, sinks 1., 2, 3, 4, selvage-shafts; sinks 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, body-shafts, raises 7, sinking No. 8.

No. 21, fourth twill-treadle, sinks 1, 2, `3, selragcshafts, raises No. 4; sinks 1, 2, body-shafts, raises No. 3; sinks 4, raises 5; sinks 6, raises 7 sinks 3.

No. 22, pile-treadle, sinks 1, 2, 3, 4, seli-'age-shafts, raises l body-shaft, sinking 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 3,

No. 23, treadle for pile, sinks 1, 2, 3, 4, selvage- 2, 3, 4l selvngeraises o, sinks o,

Cil

shafts; sinks 12, body-shafts, raises 3; sinks 4, 5, 6, 7, 8.

No. 24, treadlc for pile, sinks 1, 2, 3, 4selvageshafts sinks 1, 2,3, 4, body-shafts, raises 5; sinks (i, 7, 8.

No. 25, treadle for pile, sinks 1, 2, 3, 4, selvageshafts; sinks 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, (j, body-shafts, raises 7, sinking No. 3.

No. 26, treadle for binding and protecting shot for both the twilled back and the face, raises Nos. 1 and 3, sinking Nos. 2 an'd"4 selvage-shaits, and raises bodyshaft Nos. 1, 3, 5, and 7, sinking 2, 4, (i, 3.

No. 27, treadle binding shot for the other half of the warp, in the same manner that No. 1 and No. 2G are used for theifirst half of the warp, and sinks No. 1; raises 2, sinks 3; raises 4, selvagc-shafts, and sinks No. 1 body-shaft; raises No. 2, sinks 3; raises 4, sink 5; raise (j, sink7 raise S.

No. 28 treadle is just the same as No. 27, but has a catch-cord to prevent the weft ii'oin lashing in as it returnsin the same shed. Thus, No. 1 and No. 26 are protecting-shots, No. 1 going under shots 2, 3, 4, 5, and partly under 6, and No. 26 shot goes under 25, 24, 23, 22, and partly under N0.- 21, protecting the hack of the pile-weft, so as that the pile-wett cannot be worn by friction at the back, nor can it be scratched out by the finger-nail. Then Nos. 27 and 28 hind it `ell in.

This twill or diagonal selvage is made from the same Warp, and from off the saine beam, and differs. from every other method to me known, of attaching twilled selvages by power, and only receives welt-shots at treadle Nos. 1, 6, 11., 16, 21, 26, 27, 28, thus saving the weft-pile usually used to make the selvage, weft for face being used only Where required for the face, as all other plain and twill selvages are usually put on by hand-looms, and then with a separate beam.

Having thus described the natue of my iuvenaion, and given variousl modes of carrying the same into practical operation, I wish it to he understood that I do not bind myself to thedetailsgiven, as the strength of the back and the length and thickness of the pile can be varied by slightly altering the order of suecession in which the shafts are \\'orked. I wish also to observe that my inyention is applicable for weaving fabrics that do not require a piled face, but in which one face is of a better or more expensive material than theother. In such eases the operation of cutting the races of xyeft is dispensed with.

My n'iethod of Weaving iliifers from all others hitherto employed by Inanuthct-urers, since it forms the back of the cloth at the back of the pile-threads, to act as a protection thereto, and the pile or face of the cloth, (formed entirely from the \\'eft,) is intel-locked with each of the-Warp-threads.

The product is a cloth free from cracks or ridges, which is a result never hitherto attained in power, looms. v

By my method of weaving, the pile-weft does not appear at all on the wrong side ofthe fabric, and cannot, therefore, be scratched or pulled out from the back, `while each warp-thread serres also as a support to a weft-thread.

What, therefore, I esteem as of my invention, and desire to protect by Letters Patent, is-

The method above described vof weaving pile or other fabrics, namely, by forming the pile or face-surface of the fabric from the weft alone, intel-locked ,with the warp, as set forth, so that the weft-face appears only on the face, being protected and secured by the back-weft, and Aeach warp-thread serving to hold a pile-weft and form a cutting-race, in the manner specilied.

In testimony whereof, I have hereunto set my hand, before two subscribing witnesses.

JOHN OWENS.

Witnesses:

H. B..BA1tLo\\'. T. lil. BARLOW. 

